26 April 2021
Started to work on the rigid fuel line which I am doing with 8mm copper tube. Started by straightening it our from the coil and then feeding it into position from underneath. I had several goes at different routes but finally settled on something. At the rear I originally wanted the pipe to come out and around but I couldn't get the bend tight enough without it collapsing which would restrict the fuel flow. So I settled on finishing it under the rear transmission tunnel and I will run flexible hose from the up to the fuel filter and secure it with p-clips.
27 April 2021
Finalised the front end of the fuel pipe near the damper, I turned the damper the other way up and with a right angled connector foitted a short piece of flexible hose. The final pice is from the damper to the fuel rail and I test fitted a bit of hose which looks to be fine. I will get the inlet manifold fitted before finalising that. I cleaned up the starter motor and fitted that to the engine, finished torquing all the bell housing bolts. Got the alternator loosely fitted to the block and put some primer on the adjustment bracket to clean it up. I got the oil pressure sensor and coolant sensor for the gauges fitted along with the coolant sensor for the ECU.
30 April 2021
Finished off the remaining fuel hose at the back and added p-clips to support the hose. Refitted the petrol tank to the mounts. Had a look and a think about the inlet manifold, forgot the manifold support hadn't been cleaned so gave that a going over and a coat of etch primer. Checked where the power steering reservoir and cooler pipe need to go. Gave the reservoir a going over with a wire brush to get the worst of the rust off and then appied some rust treatment, it will be painted once that is dry. The cooling pipe that runs in front of the radiator needs cleaning up as well, but first need to let any remaining fluid drain out otherwise §1`z it drips everywhere.
1 May 20201
Painted the inlet manifold support and the alternator bracket. Then I spent a couple of hours stripping the tape and conduit off the wiring loom. I plan to find the plugs I will need (handbrake switch, fuel pump, ignotion switch etc) and cut them out with as much wire as possible. The rest of the loom I will cut out the wires and hopefuly reuse them. I am hoping to reuse the fuses and relays if they will fit into standard holders.
2 May 2021
Finished stripping the wrapping of the reminder of the loom. Started to race out the circuits using the wiring diagrams. Once I identified the wires for a particulat circuit I decided how to seperate it from the llom, either by cutting wires or extracting pins from connector. I labelled the wires I disconnected with a labeller, stating what they connected to. Each circuit was bundled up. So far I have extracted the front/rear side light, reverse switch, indicator, cooling fan circuits.
19 April 2021
Tidied up the garage a bit. Put the oil cooler and the rear coolant temperature sensor housing on the engine block. The last things left before fitting it into the car are the flywheel and clutch but I need to take it off the stand for that. Torqued and marked the brake pedal mount. Decided to finish off the steering column mounting, the bulkhead seal for the steering column needs modifying to fit the shape of the Replicar bulkhead. I Marked the positions of 2 of the 3 holes on the bulkhead seal. Dismantled the steering column (again). I had to remove the clutch pedal and master cylinder to get access to drill the holes. I bolted the seal in place with the two bolt holes and marked up the bulkhead seal where it needed to be bent to fit the shape of the bulkhead. I pulled the rubber bulkhead seal out of the metal carrier and then made some cuts in the edge where I wanted the folds to be. I folded the metal housing in my vice. Estimated where the second bend needed to be and bent it. Offered it up to the bulkhead and it was pretty close, bolted it in place and then adjusted the folds with a hammer. Drilled the last hole and then refitted the rubber seal and tested the fit again. All seemed good so I applied a thin layer of silicon to get the rubber to stick back to the metal carrier, bolted it up and tested the lower steering column fit, which was fine. Replaced the clutch pedal and master cylinder, torqued all the nuts and bolts up and marked them. On reflection it might have been better to make a cardboard template to figure out the folds and holes.
20 April 2021
Engine swap day! Undid the engine mounts at the subframe, and the few bolts holding the old engine to the gearbox. Attached the hoist and took the engine's weight, jacked up the gearbox and undid the bolts holding the mounts to the side of the engine, this made it easier to then lift the engine and get the mounting plates out of the way. Then I could get the engine completely out and down on the ground. Next I took the rebuilt engine off the engine stand, attached the engine plate before cleaning up and bolting the flywheel onto the crank with a new spigot bearing. Then I attached the clutch and pressure plate, using a clutch alignment tool to centre the clutch plate. I put the new clutch release bearing on the gearbox shaft. Then I lifted engine up and into the engine bay, aligned the engine with the gearbox and slid it into position. Then I loosely bolted the engine to gearbox and put the engine mounts into position on the subframe. I lowered the engine until I was able to bolt the engine mounts to the engine. Then I could fully release the engine from the hoist. I will need to finish tightening up the engine/gearbox bolts and the engine mounts but the engine is back in the car.
22 April 2021
Drilled the holes for mounting the fuel tank and bolted it in place, then looked at a suitable location for the fuel filter. I wanted it somewhere easy to access for maintenance so I decided to bolt in on the side of the fuel tank, utilising some of the old mounting holes. I needed to bend the old filter clamp so it sat the way I wanted but that was easy enough to do after cutting some slots in the bracket. I dropped it in the ultrasonic cleaner once it was bent, to start prepping for painting. I am going to reuse the Mazda quick connect fittings on the fuel tank, filter, fuel reail and fuel damper as that will simplify the connections to the hard fixings. I stripped the quick connectors off the old plastic fuel pipe so I can clamp them to my new rubber hose. I will use olives soldered on the end of the copper pipe to allow me to secure the rubber to the copper pipe that runs under the car. I dropped the pipe connectors in the ultrasonic cleaner as well. Really pleased with how well the ultrasonic cleaner works with the heater on using a mix of water and Bilt and Hamber Surfex HD.
23 April 2021
Torqued up the engine mounts, steering rack mounts, and front subframe brace. Dug out the fuel injectors and replaced the seals on them, inserted them into the block and added the fuel rail on top, torqued the securing bolts down. I painted the fuel filter bracket in black paint. I removed the fuel damper and the rubber bobbins from the brackets they are mounted to, and cleaned them all up. Looking at the brackets they seemed overly complex (and a bit corroded) so I decided to make a new simple bracket. I didn't have anything suitable in stock so popped out to the local hardware store to pick some steel angle up.
24 April 2021
Made up the bracket for the fuel damper from some steel angle. I cut the angle to the length I needed and drilled holes to match the fuel damper mounts and also holes to mount the bracket on to the chassis. Then I drilled the chassis by the suspension turret to mount he bracket on. With the position of the damper fixed, I also mounted the fuel filter on the fuel tank and cut the rubber hoses from the fuel pump to the filter to the correct length taking into account what additional supports will be needed to meet the IVA requirements. I inserted the Mazda connectors into the hose and clamped the rubber hose using screw clamps. Need some p-clips to clamp the flexi hose and also run the copper hardline from front to back.
13 April 2021
Finished off the rear brake pipe using the new union. I made up the two front pipes and tie wrapped them in position until I can drill and mount them permanently. I found a section of edge trim from the donor that fitted nicely on the petrol tank to stop it rubbing on the chassis at the back of the cockpit. Checked the engine coolant sensor thread (M12 x 1.5mm) which matches the ECU sender thread. Need to find a location to fit the sender for the temperature gauge nearby.
14 April 2021
Found a suitable location for the gauge sender. On the rear of the engine on the cover that the ECU sensor is located there was another tapped hole filled with a bolt, unscrewing that was another M12 x 1.5mm hole do I can screw the gauge sender in there. It will need an adaptor as the gauge sender is a 1/8 NPTF thread. Ordered an appropriate adaptor from ETB.
17 April 2021
Adaptor arrived and fits into the threaded hole so all ready to go. Put the rear water outlet cover in the ultrasonic cleaner to clean it up before fitting it to the engine. Disconnected all the hard lines and blew air down them from the airline to get any small bits of dirt out of them. Then I connected up some of the old pipes to the 3 outlets on the master cylinder and put some clean brake fluid in and let it run through into a suitable container just to clear out any bits of dirt. Then I completed securing the pipes to the body with pclips and self tappers. On the rear subframe I used a couple of the existing holes and fitted the p-clips using some suitable plastic rivets I had. Connected up all the hard lines. Dug out the old front pads ready to fit them.
18 April 2021
Stripped the front calipers off the car, cleaned up the discs and all the mounting bolts. Regreased the slider pins and fitted the brake pads and new clips. Torqued up the brake mountings and then did the same for the rear brakes. Went round all the unions and adjusted the flexi hoses so hopefully they won't rub on the wheels or suspension. Won't really know until the body and new wheels are on. Added some brake fluid and did and started bleeding the brakes. With all new pipes I suspect it will take a few bleeding sessions to expel all the air. I was in the garage about 6 hours today, not much to see in terms of progress (so not a lot of photos) but I just need to keep chipping away at the jobs.
7 April 2021
Cooked the crinkle paint on the cam cover and inlet manifold to cure it. The cam cover and lower inlet wouldn't fit in my mini oven, so utilised the two hobs on the top to heat them up. Applied some paint to the fuel tank to cover up some scratches and the treated rust.
10 April 2021
Out for a social drive with the GRRC in the TVR so no work on the Replicar this Saturday
11 April 2021
Fitted the thermostat housing and torqued it down. Fitted the front cover and cam sprockets. Fitted the timing belt and tensioned it, fitted the main crank pulley and all the remaining front covers. Did another trial fit of the petrol tank now the bobbins have arrived. Seems to fit nicely, I want to add a protection strip to the edge of the tank near the rear of the cockpit to stop it rubbing against the chassis.
12 April 2021
Reassembled the internal baffles, PSV grommet, PSV valve, and cam position sensor. Refitted the VVT actuator to the cam cover and then bolted the cam cover to the top of the engine with a new cam cover seal. Fitted the new thermostat and the lower radiator hose outlet. Fitted the VVT feed pipe with new copper sealing washers and torqued it down. Checked the new (bigger) oil pressure switch would not foul anything and it all looks OK, removed it until the engine is back in the car. My new alloy filler cap has also arrived and I think it sets the cam cover off nicely.
1 April 2021
Spent time this week getting the circuit diagrams drawn up in OpenOffice. I put each major circuit on a seperate page as that is how I will be constructing them. Mostly referenced from the Mazda diagrams but making changes to accoomodate the Canems ECU as that connects into certain things (e.g controlling the alternator output and the charge warning lamp.
2 April 2021
Finished doing most of the wiring diagrams. I still need to count how many circuits are feeding off the ignition and how many directly from the battery, what fuses and relays I will need so I can plan my fuse box layout and get a basic idea for the wiring layout. 10% discount offer at Europa Spares this weekend so put together an order for harnesses, headlights, indicators, fuel hose, and some other bits of trim. In the garage I masked up the cam cover, inlet manifold and plenum and sprayed them with crinkle paint. Did a trial positioning for the fuel tank and had a think about fuel filter positioning. I'll need some rubber bobbins to mount the fuel tank. Spent some time cleaning off some foam padding that was stuck on it and which looked unslightly. I'll need to touch up some of the paint on the tank to make it look nice.
3 April 2021
Applied some B&H rust converter to the light rust on the petrol tank. Fitted the new brake union to the rear subframe, cut and flared a new brake pipe to run from the master cylinder to the rear union and fitted it to the clips in the transmission tunnel. I added additional p-clips to secure it at the front and rear as per the IVA requirements (at least every 300mm). Cut a new length of pipe to run from the union to the nearside rear brake. Flared one end but ran out of unions so I have ordered some more.
Checked on the crinkle paint on the cam cover and inlet manifold and touched up a few areas. It's OK, not as good as I hoped, hopefully it will improve with more curing time.
The o-ring for the thermostat housing has arrived so I can press on with the engine rebuild.
4 April 2021
Did some more work on the wiring diagrams and fuse box planning.
Glorious spring day so took the TVR for a drive instead of working on the Replicar.
23 March 2021
A quick trip to the garage this evening and I got the water pump fitted and the cylinder head bolted down. I had fitted new dowel pins to the block and the head needed the corresponding bolt holes just cleaning out to let it sit on the dowels smoothly.
26 March 2021
Not been in the garage much this week but have been thinking and startng to plan what I am going to do with electrics. I already have my Canems ECU and new loom so that takes care of the engine side of things. I still need to wire up lights, horn, ignition, gauges, ECU feed etc. I am planning to strip the Mazda loom down for the wires and reuse a couple of the plugs to connect to things like the ignition and column switches. CBS have just added some reasonably priced sets of waterproof connectors to their range which would be useful. I've been trawling the internet for something to help me with designing the wiring circuits but there doesn't seem to be much out there for the hobbyist car builder without a large commitment in software subscriptions. Plenty of options for designing PCBs and the like the biggest problem is finding something that has a set of suitable icons. In the end I built my own gallery for OpenOffice by borrowing shapes from open source galleries and creating the missing ones myself. Next task will to start drawing out the individual circuits.
27 March 2021
Had a few hours in the garage this afternoon and got the lifters and cams fitted. The lifters were placed back in there original locations and oiled up, I checked that they moved soothly in their bores. The cam bearings and lobes were coated with assembly lube and carefully poisitioned. Then the caps were placed in position and torqued up. Finally the cam oil seals were pushed in to place.
28 March 2021
I intended to fit the thermostat housing to the engine today, but my gasket set doesn't seem to have the right o-ring so had to place an order for one. Instead I cleaned up the cam cover to get it ready for painting. I stripped the VVT unit, cam sensors, PSV valve and all the brackets. I stripped the plates inside the cover so I could give it a really good clean and also so I could remove the PSV valve grommet. I went all over the outside surface with wire wheels to clear any loose corrosion off. Then I gave it ia good rinse in the parts washer and dried it off. I carefully drilled out the snapped EGR valve bolts. I was unable to save the threads but I can easily get bolt on the back to secure the EGR blanking plate.
The intake manifold/plenum also got a similar cleanup and I also ground off the worst of the casting flash lines. I applied some aluminium putty to the cam cover to cover up the Mazda lettering. Once it is cured I will sand it off smooth. All the bolts, screws and brackets from the intake manifold and cam cover were run through the ultrasonic cleaner, dried and packed away.
I also stripped the split conduit off the front to rear wiring loom so I could see all the wires and connections for when I need to look at the wiring. All the conduit and any fixings I was able to remove were put in a bix in case I want to use them in the future. There is still a huge pile of wiring loom to take apart.
21 March 2021
Only got in the garage on Sunday afternoon, food shopping, potato planting and other jobs taking up Saturday.
Had to go and buy another valve lapping tool because I can't find the safe place I put the other one! Lapped in the valves and then cleaned up the head and valves with wipes and plenty of brake cleaner. Fitted the new oil stem seals from my engine gasket set, a bit of lubrication and they can be pushed into position by hand. A deep 10mm socket sits nicely on the shoulders.
Lubricated the valve stems and put them back into the head then took and each spring in turn fitted them to the head with the collets. This was a fiddly task and took the best part of 3 hours. The first few took the longest. I put an old rubber seal under the valve to stop it moving then slipped the spring over, ensuring it was the right way up with the upper spring seat on top. Then the fiddly task of compressing the spring and fitting the 2 tiny keepers in place. I found the most successful method was to put a bit of grease on the inside of the keeper and then use a little more grease on a small screwdriver which helps it to stick. Then manoeuvre it into place on the valve and repeat with the other keeper and release the spring. In reality it is a lot of fiddling about trying to get the keepers in the right position while trying to keep the spring compressed enough. It took several attempts for each valve but finally all 16 valves were done. I wiped off the excess grease and gave them all a good look over to make sure I was happy with everything. I put the new head dowels in place and checked the head gasket over to make sure it matched the old one. At first glance it seemed to be wrong as several of the waterways were sealed off by the head gasket but upon comparison with the old one it appears this is correct.
2 March 2021
Started the process of rebuilding the engine this evening.
The block has been cleaned, painted and honed by my local machine shop. They've checked the bores and deck. The crankshaft was also checked and found to be OK and just needed repolishing. The pistons was checked for ovality and are OK too.
This evening I started by removing the old pistons rings and cleaning the carbon and gum from the pistons, I used some cellusose thinners to wipe them off then used a plastic scoruing wheel to gently remove the carbon. Then a combination of handheld stiff bristled nylon and brass brushes to clean out the ring grooves.
I checked the gaps for the new rings and fitted them to the pistons.
6 March 2021
Started on the block reassembly. Cleaned the big end caps and con rods and fitted the new bearings.
Ran all the bolts from the engine through my ultrasonic cleaner, had to clean up the threads on the sump bolts as they were coated in silicon.
Cleaned the block oilways with a small bottle brush and brake cleaner then inserted the galley plugs. Fitted the engine core plugs too. Then gave the engine another wipe over with lint free cloths and brake cleaner.
Mounted the engine on my stand and wiped out the bores again, then lubricated them with engine oil, lubricated the pistons and slid them into the bores with a ring compressor.
Turned the engine over, cleaned the main bearing caps and the. Inserted the the main bearings in the block and placed the crankshaft in place. Started to fit the main bearings to the caps but dropped one and it now has a nasty scratch on the bearing surface. What a pain in the arse I will have to order a whole new set now. Place the crank and big end caps loosely in place so they don't get lost and covered the engine with a bag until I can get the new bearing shells ordered. Made a start on cleaning up the cylinder head. Removed the worst of the carbon from the valves and combustion chamber and then set about removing the cams. I ran the bolts and cam bearing caps through the ultrasonic cleaner and greased them lightly with oil before putting them in to labelled bags. Removed the cams and the tappets and put them in labelled bags as I removed them. I had a go with my valve spring compressor and removed one valve so I could try it out, works well once I'd figured out the best place to bolt it in place. Removed the collets, spring and put them in a labelled bag.
I'll need to make up a valve holder so they don't get mixed up.
12 March 2021
My new gauges have arrived early! Really pleased with them, I think they will look great in the car when they are fitted.
13 March 2021
Not much progress in the garage last week, been feeling a bit grumpy after the bearing fiasco last week. New bearings arrived in the week so back into the garage today and get on with the engine build. Started by unbolting and removing everything from the block (again). Gave everything a wipe over with a lint free cloth and brake cleaner. Removed the main bearings and fitted the new ones (without dropping any). Put the crank in and checked the oil clearance with plastigauge 0.05mm which is with the maximum tolerance (0.1mm). Cleaned off the plastigauge applied some assembly lube to the bearings and torqued it up. Crank turned nicely in the bearings so refitted the pistons and lubed the con rod bearings and torqued that all up. Fitted, the new rear oil seal, oil pump, strainer, main bearing support plate. Gave the sump a going over to clean the worst of the corrosion and old muck off then fitted it to the block. Bit annoyed that the crush washer I bought for the sump plug (supposedly the same as the diff and gearbox) are too big so will need to source the correct ones.
Drilled some holes in a lump of wood to hold the valves then got on with removing the rest of the valve springs and valves. Labelled and bagged the valves and collets and put the valves in the lump of wood. Removed the valve stem oil seals then got on with removing any remains of gaskets and cleaned up the cylinder head face. Cleaned the last of the carbon of the valves and called it day.
22 January 2021
Masked up the steering column and put some primer on it.
23 January 2021
Top coated the steering column. Cleaned up, and greased the pedal pivots, reassembled them into their brackets. Did a test fit of the servo, I needed to file out the central hole slightly to fit. Discovered the engine side spacer I made is not quite right so reworked the design but too late to start a print. Ordered some more bits; the original MX5 clutch pipe goes across the engine bay and then back so I've ordered a new shorter flexible hose, new pedal rubbers, more crushed glass for blasting, paint to touch up the chassis where I have to drill/file, gasket paper, and I've ordered a gear knob.
24 January 2021
Test fitted the pedals, brake servo, clutch master cylinder and steering column with the modified spacer. I will need to look at the spacers again as I can't depress the clutch pedal fully without it hitting the bulkhead, it's a matter of a few millimetres so if I adjust the spacer thickness then I think I can fix that. Similar problem with the brake and throttle pedals, hoping that a couple of washers will fix that. The throttle pedal could be easily bent but not the brake so if I can adjust the bracket position to fix it then that would be best.
25 February 2021
Had a call from Classic and Modern Engines, the block and crank are ready for collection. Crank only needed repolishing and the block only needed honing so all good there. Collected the engine and ordered bearings and rings which should be here tomorrow.
26 February 2021
I've been thinking about the engine build and I will need to fit the various sensors for the gauges, that will be easier with the engine on the bench, so I need to decide on the gauges I want and sensors that go with them. I picked a set of gauges from ETB, they are a classic black dial, white pointer and chrome bezel (IVA safe) (https://www.etbinstruments.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=101&product_id=185). They come with all the senders and I ordered the thread adapters from them too. I will use the Mazda fuel gauge sensor as it is integral to the pump and regulator. To make that work I've also ordered a device that will allow me to match the sender to the gauge (Gauge Wizard from www.Spiyda.com). The speedo should work with the Mazda gearbox sender, the ECU will drive the tachometer.
27 February 2021
Had a rethink on the clutch pedal and cylinder mounting, decided not to use the 3D printed spacers as they were too brittle. I also needed to solve the problem of sealing the hole through the bulkhead. The clutch master cylinder arrangement is a bit tricky. The bracket bolts to the bulkeahd and the cylinder bolts to the pedal bracket, not to the bulkhead directly. Some sort of cover is needed to seal up the hole. I made a plate out of some scrap aluminium, carefully cutting out holes to match the master cylinder. The plate will be attached to the engine side of the bulkhead with some sealant and rivets or self tapping screws. I made up some new spacers out of some off cuts of the plastic floor tiles in the garage. These will ensure the clutch pedal doesn't foul the lower bulkhead. I will add an additional support for the brake and clutch pedals attached to the chassis above the pedals. Hopefully tomorrow I can do a final fit for the pedals. I've done a trial fit of the steering column and everything seems to line up nicely.
28 February 2021
I've lost count of the number of times the pedals and master cylinders have come off the car this week, but it's the only way to get it right. The first job today was to fix the sealing plate onto the bulkhead. I applied some silicone sealant to the bulkhead, lined up the plate and secured it with a couple of self tapping screws. It sounds easy enough but in reality meant taking the pedal on and off at least 4 times! I modified the spacer behind the clutch pedal and put a bit of a taper on it so that the bracket would be tilted up slightly, which was enough to stop the pedal hitting the lower bulkhead. The brake pedal still hits the bulkhead on full depression but currently it isn't linked up to the hydraulics. I measured the pedal movement and checked against the specifications, the pedal should only need 3-4 inches of travel when it is all connected up and I've got over 6 inches so I think everything is good there. I bent the accelerator pedal slightly to rprevent it hitting the bulkhead. With that finalised, I made up a plate for the top of the clutch pedal bracket and then drilled through the frame above it so I could bolt the pedal bracket to it with a long bolt and nut. The brake pedal bracket was slightly easier as the mounting hole on the bracket lined up with the chassis and I was able to drill through the rail to it, another bolt secured that. Next it was time to finalise the steering column position. I got one of the MX5 seats and placed it in the cockpit so I could judge the position. I used a ratchet strap across the car to support the column, that let me adjust the position to what I felt would be correct. With that done I drilled out the steering column support plate, mounted it to the top rail and bolted the steering column in place. The plate needed bending slightly to get the angles correct. The last job on the column at this stage is to bend the bulkhead seal around the bulkhead which will mean taking at the steering column and clutch pedal out one more time. Once that is done, I am hoping I don't have to take it out again. I may need to fine tune the steering column once the dash position is finalised. Next up hopefully is rebuilding the engine.
17 February 2021
Rubbed the subframe brace down and put a couple of coats of primer on it. Whilst that was drying I wiped the brake and clutch master cylinder down to get the dust and dirt off. I also gave the brake servo a wipe over. The brake master cylinder looks very clean but the clutch master cylinder needs more cleaning, I think I will give it a go with the soda blaster! I also fitted the front ARB to the chassis and bolted it to the drop links.
18 February 2021
Spoke to Classic and Modern Engines this morning and the crank was fine, it just needed a polish. The block has been cleaned and honed, not sure if they had to bore it out, but it sounds like they didn't. Once it is painted then it should be ready to collect and I can start building it up. In and out of the garage putting top coats of paint on the modified subframe brace.
20 February 2021
Removed the loose paint on the brake servo, clutch master cylinder and the clutch cylinder bracket with my media blast gun. Painted the servo and bracket with satin black paint. I bolted up the modified rear brace to the subframe. I turned to the cockpit and had a look at how the pedals mount to the bulkhead. The brake and accelerator pedal are mounted to the brake servo which was still drying, The bulkhead looks different to the original MEV design and I think the spacers should stay on the interior instead of being cut off and put on the engine side as in the original. The clutch pedal bolts to the master cylinder but needs a spacer fabricating so it can sit correctly on the bulkhead. I looked at some of the other build threads and the build manual to see what others had done. I decided I would 3D print something suitable. I took some measurements and drew up what I thought would be a suitable design and printed it out. I also had a look at how the steering column will be mounted, the bulkhead seal will need modifying and the upper part bolts on to the clutch and brake pedal assembly.
21 February 2021
The first draft of the spacer needed some minor tweaks to get the holes aligned so another print was run and then a thicker one for the engine side was tweaked and printed. As the pedals and steering column will be a bit more visible in the car than they were in the MX5 I decided it would be a good idea to paint them. I took the pedal assemblies apart so I could paint the brackets to match the chassis. The pedals only need a slight touch up in black. In between coats I trimmed the lower bulkhead panel to fit and then marked and drilled the holes for the pop rivets. I ran a bead of sealant around and riveted it in place. I did some more trial fitting for the lower steering column and I am pretty happy with how that is sitting. I will probably wait until I've got the pedals installed before I modify the bulkhead seal. The upper steering column needs painting as well but the surface rust is currently being treated.